《THE WOOL TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN GREAT BRITAIN》求取 ⇩

Eight The evolution of spinning H．Catling Senior Principal Research Officer,Cotton,Silk and Man-made Fibres Research Association Shi rley Institute Manchester101

Nine The dyeing of wool and woollen goods C．O．Clark117

Ten The techniques of weaving P．Ellis Lecturer in Textile Industries University of Bradford125

Eleven Milling and milling machinery C．S．Whewell Professor of Textile Industries University of Leeds157

Twelve Cloth finishing K．G．Ponting Research Director Pasold Research Fund170

Section C Regional studiesThirteenThe Yorkshire wool textile industry M．T．Wild Lecturer in Geography University of Hull185

Fourteen TheWest of England cloth industry K．G．Ponting with a note on the Witney Blanket Industry by David J．Smith,formerly Managing Director,Smiths Blankets(Witney)Ltd235

Fifteen The cloth industry in East Anglia J．E．Pilgrim Lecturer in Extra Mural Studies,University of Birmingham252

Sixteen The rise and growth of the tweed industry in Scotland J．G．Martindale Principal,Scottish College of Textiles Galashiels269

Seventeen TheWelsh woollen industry J．Geraint Jenkins Keeper of Material Culture Welsh Folk Museum St Fagans,Cardiff281

Bibliography301

Index307

Plates311

ContentsSection A Historical studiesOne Prehistoric and Roman textiles J．P．Wild Lecturer in Archaeology University of Manchester3

Two Wool growing and wool textiles in medieval and early modern times Eric Kerridge Reader in Economics University College of NorthWales,Bangor19

Three The wool textile industry 1750-1960 David Seward Research Assistant Department of Economic History University of Exeter34

Section B Technical studiesFour The wools of Britain Michael L.Ryder Principal Scientific Officer Animal Breeding Research Organization,Edinburgh51

Five Preparation of wools John A.Iredale Lecturer in Textiles University of Bradford65

Six The development of the modern woollen-carding machine R．T．D．Richards Principal Scientific Officer Wool Industries Research Association,Leeds71

Seven The evolution of combing Hugo Lemon Sometime Editor Wool Industries Research Association,Leeds85

FiguresChapter One85

1.1 Jet distaffs6

1.2 Spindle and whorl7

1.3 Spin direction9

1.4 The warp-weighted loom (a)Elevation (b)View from side10

1.5 Principle of the starting-border from12

Verulamium(St Albans)12

1.6 Iron Age and Roman weaving12

implements12

1.7 Weaves14

1.8 Faults in the twill from Huntcliff15

1.9 The fuller from Sens16

Chapter Three16

3.1 Wool and cotton textiles as a percentage of the value of total British exports35

Chapter Four35

4.1 Diagram showing double coat of wild sheep51

4.2 Cross sections of different fibre types in sheep53

4.3 Distribution of fibre diameters in un-spurn wool from cave near Dead Sea54

4.4 Changes in fibre diameter distribution during fleece evolution56

4.5 Suggested lines of evolution of different fleece types59

4.6 Areas of Viking influence in Britain from the North60

4.7 Areas of England occupied by the Danes before the Norman Conquest60

4.8 Probable lines of evolution of British breeds of sheep61

Chapter Five61

5.1 Distribution of qualities in typical fleeces65

5.2 Lay-out of a wool sorting board66

5.3 A modern willey68

5.4 Stack blend68

Chapter Six68

6.1 Woollen carding part with three worker and stripper pairs72

6.2 Sketch of a pair of hand cards73

6.3 Ring doffer80

Chapter Seven80

7.1 Combing in about A.D.130085

7.2 Hand combs and'pad'fixed to post86

7.3 Comb pot87

7.4 Horn disc or'diz'88

7.5 Cartwright's first comb 179091

7.6 Cartwright's 1792 model—'Big Ben'92

7.7 Platt and Collier's comb 1827 (a)plan view (b)elevation94

7.8 Heilmann's comb 184696

7.9 Lister and Donisthorpe's nip comb 185197

7.10 Noble's comb 1853(a)plan view (b)elevation98

Chapter Eight98

8.1 Spinning from the spindle point102

8.2 Spindle and flyer102

8.3 A rkwright's water frame104

8.4 Working elements of the jenny106

8.5 Cycle of operations of the jenny107

8.6 Working elements of the mule109

8.7 The Danforth throstle112

8.8 Thorp's original ring spinner113

8.9 Ring and Traveller spinning113

8.10 Roller drafting against'false'twist115

Chapter Ten115

10.1 The main features of the common hand loom126

10.2 Early hand loom incorporating a pair of drop boxes and fly shuttle device127

10.3 Kay's fly shuttle128

10.4 Horrocks's loom incorporating a modification of the wiper loom's method of picking129

10.5 Early power loom(side view)130

10.6 Negative let-off motion132

10.7 Hattersley positive let-off mechanism133

10.8 Hattersley's model loom lever dobby134

10.9 Dobcross wheel dobby134

10.10 Single lift and cylinder135

10.11 Overpick motion for plain loom136

10.12 Dobcross picking tappet and shoe136

10.13 Dobcross drop box whip pick loom(front view)137

10.14 Dobcross picking stick and checking (back view)138

10.15 Warp protector—Dobcross stop rod tongue and frog139

10.16 Northrop electrical two pronged weft feeler for automatic weft replenishment140

10.17 Northrop-Midget mechanical feeler140

10.18 Schematic diagram illustrating the operation of the'Unifil'loom winder141

10.19 Perspective sketch of the Fischer ALV bobbin loader142

10.20 The weft holding device142

10.21 Horizontal centre weft fork143

10.22 Plan view diagram—Gripper shuttle loom144

10.23 The torsion bar picking system of the Sulzer machine145

10.24 The Sulzer beat-up system146

10.25 The tuck-in selvedges produced by the Sulzer machine146

10.26 Thread run in accumulator head147

10.27 Incidence and causes of weft breakage in the Sulzer weaving machine147

10.28 Annual operating expenses (three shift working)and relative production costs of three weaving systems148

10.29 Four stages of weft insertion on the water iet loom(Kovo)149

10.30 The picking system of the water jet loom(Kovo)149

10.31 The weft supply system of the water iet loom(Kovo)150

10.32 Basic principles of the Prince water jet loom150

10.33 Dimensions(mm.)and mechanisms of the Prince water iet loom151

10.34 The passage of the warp on the Maxbo air iet loom152

10.35 The arrangement of various components relative to the Maxbo air jet loom152

10.36 Details of the nozzle on the Maxbo loom153

10.37 Process of interlacing in the Malimo machine153

10.38 Double lift single cylinder Jacquard154

10.39 Double lift double cvlinder Jacquard155

10.40 Schematic diagram of cloth passage on Malimo 2400155

Chapter Eleven155

11.1 Shorter's mechanism158

11.2 Martin's mechanism160

11.3 Fulling stock,showing names of parts and materials of which made163

11.4 Milling machine Chapter Thirteen164

13.1 Location of West Riding wool textiles belt,1951186

13.2 Relief,drainage and places mentioned in text187

13.3 Domesday settlements in the West Riding193

13.4 Settlement of the Upper Calder Valley,1086-1700194

13.5 Halifax parish registers:annual recordings of baptisms and burials,1540-92197

13.6 Localization of the woollen industry within the West Riding,1600-19200

13.7 Site of Sowerby Bridge fulling mill203

13.8 West Riding wool textiles belt:fulling mills,1740-70207

13.9 Colne and Holme Valleys:periods of establishment of water powered woollen mills209

13.10 West Riding wool textiles belt:periods of establishment of water powered textiles mills210

13.11 West Riding wool textiles belt c.1834:conversion of water power mills to steam power218

13.12 West Riding wool textiles belt c.1850:distribution of textiles mills built as steam powered units219

13.13 West Riding wool textiles belt,1839:power utilization in textiles mills220

13.14A Population of West Riding wool textiles belt,1801-1961222

13.14B Population of Gritstone uplands wool textiles districts,1801-1901222

13.15A Sites of textiles mills in the Slaithwaite district of the Colne Vallev, c.1850-present day224

13.15B Sites of textiles mills in the Pudsey district,c.1850-1968224

13.16 West Riding wool textiles belt; active mills,1925 and 1967 Chapter Fifteen230

15.1 East Anglia—traditional cloth industry about 1560254

15.2 Suffolk and Essex 1560-1660256

15.3 Essex and Suffolk—the new draperies after 1560257

Chapter Seventeen257

17.1 Distribution of the place name 'Pandv'in Wales283

17.2 Weaving shops and mills in Newtown, Montgomeryshire287

17.3 Plan for the extension of Craigfryn Mill,Newton 1824288

17.4 Woollen mills at Dre-fach-Felindre, Carmarthenshire in 1900294

17.5 Distribution of known woollen mills in West Wales 1800-1967295

17.6 Distribution of woollen mills 1967298

17.7 Distribution of woollen mills 1947299